Installation of the SYE Slip Yoke Eliminator by Jeep Driveshaft Parts USA LLC
It's currently normal information that Wrangler proprietors like to have a great time, and what's better than a greater Jeep? Not much. The issue Wrangler proprietors face while lifting their Jeep is that short back driveline. Any kind of suspension lift that surpasses 3.5" is probably going to cause driveline vibrations. Beside bringing down the exchange case (which likewise brings down ground freedom), the most straightforward method for killing driveline vibrations is to dispose of the short, slip-yoke type driveline and replace it with a more drawn-out CV sort. The best way to do that is to replace or change your current exchange case.
Supplanting the exchange case can cost upwards of two or three thousand bucks. Sadly, the vast majority of you (like me) presumably don't have that sort of cash accessible to spend on an exchange case trade. That leaves us the choice of altering the current exchange case by eliminating the tailcone yield area and shortening it by around 3". Doing this will permit you to introduce a driveshaft that is around 3" longer, which, in and of itself, will mitigate driveline points; however, even better, it will permit you to change to a CV-type driveshaft, which is better at taking care of sharp points than its slip-yoke partner. Introducing a Driveshaft Parts USA LLC slip yoke eliminator requires around two hours and requires the accompanying instruments.
- Fundamental mechanics torques/attachments
- Round saw/processor with a metal cutting edge (a Sawzall won't work)
- Focus punch
- Hammer
- Electric drill
- Tap handle—for the 3/8" tap.
- 1/8" and 5/16" boring tool
- 3/8" and 5/16" Allen torques
- Cutting oil
- RTV silicone sealer
- Loctite
The benefits of utilizing this specific unit are straightforward:
It's modest, simple to introduce (done while the exchange case is in the vehicle), further develops your lifted vehicle's back driveline point, and permits a brought-down exchange case to be returned to its stock area.
1. Eliminate the back driveshaft from the vehicle: On the back pivot, this is finished by eliminating four 1/4" bolts and two steel holding lashes from the differential result yoke. At the exchange case, just haul the driveshaft out of the slip yoke. Some oil might spill from the exchange situation when the shaft is taken out, but not much.
2. Eliminate the tailcone area from the exchange case: The tailcone is held to the exchange case by three bolts. Eliminate them, and the tailcone ought to pop or slide no longer associated with this issue or shaft. In the event that it does not, softly tap it on the sides with a mallet to push it free from the case. The main thing holding it up as of now is silicone sealant.
3. Seal the resultant shaft bearing surface to keep it away from contact with trash: Driveshaft Parts USA LLC proposed the utilization of pipe tape, but different things, for example, Reynolds' plastic wrap, will work. Make certain to utilize a liberal sum so no garbage can get into the result bearing when you cut the shaft off.
4. Measure and imprint the shaft so 1" of splined shaft will remain: Recall the standard, "Measure two times." Cut once." Denoting somewhat more than 1" of shaft on the grounds that too much length is superior to too little might be shrewd." Assuming that you cut the shaft excessively lengthy, it very well may be abbreviated. In the event that you cut the shaft excessively off, you'll require another one. You will require a round saw with a metal-cutting or carbide edge. A sawzall won't work. A 4.5" hand processor is great for this since it's sufficiently small to fit in the bound region you'll work in. While utilizing a processor, ensure you cut gradually and for something like 30 to 60 seconds all at once. This will keep the shaft from getting overheated and distorting. After you've sliced through the shaft, if it isn't square toward the end, grind it down to make it square.
5. Focus punch the finish of the shaft: This will guarantee the boring apparatus begins at the focal point of the shaft while penetrating the pilot opening. To make finding the focal point of the shaft more straightforward, place the CV Result Rib over the cut-off shaft. This diminishes the noticeable surface region from around 1.25" width to 0.5" distance across, permitting you to find the focal point of the shaft more straightforwardly. Make certain to raise a ruckus around town sufficiently hard to place an imprint toward the finish of the shaft profound enough for a 1/8" bore to sit in.
6. Drill the pilot opening toward the end of the shaft: This is finished with a 1/8" bore. This step is most straightforward to complete with the vehicle raised 6" on jack stands and the exchange case brought down 2". With the vehicle being basically as high as could be expected, you'll have the option to sit under it and measure the course of the drill. The pilot opening should be bored into the shaft as straight as could be expected, so take as much time as necessary. The pilot opening should be 1"–1.25" profound. After that is finished, you really want to drill out the 1/8" pilot opening with a 5/16" bore. To play it safe, you might need to utilize a 3/16" digit before going to the 5/16" bit. This makes it somewhat simpler to bore a straight opening. Ensure the last profundity of the pilot opening is 1.25".
7. Utilize a 3/8"–24 tap to cut strings into the 5/16" pilot opening. Utilize cutting oil (or WD-40) and keep the tap strings clean. Alert: On the off chance that you have never utilized a tap, tapping the pilot opening isn't an ideal opportunity to learn! For best outcomes, you ought to find out how to do this and afterward practice on one more piece of steel accurately. The legitimate method for tapping an opening is one full turn forward (clockwise) and one-half turn around (counter-clockwise); however, since the shaft is made of solidified steel, tap it in one-half turn forward to increase the force. As of now, it's best to be as cautious as possible.
8. Introduce the oil seal in the bearing or seal rib. You will need a press, bad habit, or comparative device to do this. The oil seal should be squeezed straight in, or harm will happen. After the oil seal is squeezed into the bearing or seal spine, turn it over and run a dot of RTV silicone along an outline right inside the three bolt openings. The dot ought to be around 3/16". Permit around 10–20 minutes for the silicone to "skin" over prior to introducing it. Get some margin to lube up the elastic piece of the seal where it will connect with the CV result spine. Cleaning move case oil on it with your finger will be sufficient. Try to put a lot of oil around the dark elastic piece of the seal. This is to diminish any other way the seal will soften and tear inside the first mile of driving.
9. Introduce the bearing or seal rib. Eliminate the pipe tape, cling wrap, or anything else you used to safeguard the exchange case yield bearing (in sync 3) from the exchange case yield shaft. Clean the surface close to the bearing, ensuring there could be no extra buildup from when the tailcone was eliminated. Utilize three grade 8 M10 x 25mm bolts to introduce the bearing/seal spine onto the exchange case. Apply Loctite to the bolts prior to embedding them. This would be a decent opportunity to apply RTV silicone to the excess splines of the resulting shaft. This is to keep oil from spilling through the CV Result Spine whenever it's introduced.
10. Introduce the CV Result Spine. Slide the CV Result Spine over the result shaft splines and through the oil seal. Take care not to harm the seal. You might have to utilize a mallet to tap the CV Result Spine down the shaft gently. Utilize a 3/8" bolt and washer to bolt the CV Result Rib to the result shaft. Use loctite to hold the bolt in place.
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